Skin care information for those with combination skin. As every makeup lover and wearer knows or should know, makeup starts with good clean perferrabley clear skin, so here are Paula's suggestions for the care of combination skin. It is a little long so please bare with me. :)


Combination skin is a common skin type with the frustration of having to deal with both dry and oily skin. Because the nose, chin, center of the forehead, and the cheeks all have more oil glands than any other part of the face, it is not surprising that those areas tend to be oilier and may break out more frequently than other areas. At the same time, the areas that lack oil glands can become dry and flaky. Problems occur when you attempt to treat combination skin as one unified skin type. Many ingredients that are appropriate for the T-zone (the area along the center of the forehead and down the nose where most of the active oil glands on the face are located) won't help the drier parts of cheeks, eyes, or jaw areas and vice versa. More often than not, separate products are required to deal with the different skin types on your face because different skin types, even on the same face, must be treated differently to truly feel and look better. Once you accept this fact and adjust your routine, combination skin can be brought into balance, at least to the extent that using the right products allows! In fact, "balance" is a key word to keep in mind when dealing with combination skin. The goal is to provide your oily and drier areas with appropriate products that address the needs specific to these skin types.


The fundamental rule for all skin types of treating skin gently apply here, too, perhaps even more so. If anything, using overly-abrasive or irritating skin-care products on oilier areas will only worsen combination skin's dual nature by making dry areas drier and creating a rough, reddened appearance over oily areas. Plus treating skin harshly does not correct or improve oiliness in any way. Because combination skin should be viewed and treated as separate skin types, I have divided the battle plans below into three step-by-step sections. The first section lists general guidelines for combination skin, the second pertains to treating oily areas, and the third offers a protocol for treating your normal-to-dry (and, in some cases, very dry) areas. Special notes are included for dealing with combination skin that also experiences blemishes or blackheads in either oily or normal-to-dry areas.


General Guidelines for Combination Skin

• Wash your face with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser that does not leave skin feeling tight or dry. Most combination skin types do well with gel-based or mildly foaming cleansers.
• Avoid bar soaps or bar cleansers of any kind, regardless of claims of gentleness or no residue. The ingredients that keep a bar cleanser or soap in its bar form can clog pores, and the cleansing ingredients are always far more drying than a gentle cleanser contains.
• If you opt to use a toner, the same toner can be used all over the face if it does not contain ingredients that make oily areas feel slick or greasy. Water- and glycerin-based toners are ideal, but be sure they also contain plenty of antioxidants, water-binding agents, and, if applicable, cell-communicating ingredients.
• Sunscreen must be used every day, year-round. Make sure it contains one of these UVA-protecting ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone. A foundation and pressed powder with sunscreen is perfect for this skin type to avoid applying moisturizers with sunscreen all over the face.
• Exfoliate and renew skin with regular use of a beta hydroxy acid (BHA/salicylic acid) product. BHA not only exfoliates the surface of skin it also exfoliates inside the pore to improve its shape and function.
• Treat dry areas (including the eye area) with a moisturizer loaded with antioxidants, water-binding agents, and ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. Regular use of these state-of-the-art ingredients can eliminate dry skin. Make sure the product you buy is packaged in an airtight, opaque container (absolutely no jars) to keep the antioxidants stable.
• If sun damage or wrinkles are cause for concern (and they probably are, it is the rare person who has adequately avoided and protected their skin from the sun), consider adding a tretinoin product (Retin-A, Renova, Avita, etc.) to your nightly routine. Tretinoin is a cell-communicating ingredient that can generate normalized cells. These prescription-only products are available in different bases so you may choose the texture (gel, cream, lotion) best for your skin.

Treating the Oily Areas of Combination Skin

• Apply a well-formulated (meaning irritant-free and pH-correct) BHA liquid or gel at least once per day. This will not only help prevent oil blockages in the pores, but will also minimize blackheads and control blemishes. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which allows it to exfoliate inside the pore lining to keep dead skin cells and sebum (oil) from causing problems. It is also acceptable to apply the BHA product over your normal to dry areas. However, you may need a more potent BHA product (one containing 2% salicylic acid, for oily areas. You may have to experiment to see if a product containing 1% salicylic acid is more suitable for normal to dry areas.
• Use an oil-absorbing facial mask as needed but only apply it over oily areas. Apply after cleansing, leave on for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly.
• If you are prone to blemishes, apply a topical antibacterial product containing benzoyl peroxide. Research in the medical journal Lancet (December 2004, pages 2188–2195) found benzoyl peroxide to be the most effective treatment, in comparison to oral antibiotics (such as tetracycline), topical antibiotics (such as erythromycin), or combination treatments. Oral tetracycline suffered in the comparison because of the common problem of eventual bacterial resistance to antibiotics. Begin with a 2.5% strength and increase the percentage if blemishes are unresponsive. If you are allergic to or your skin cannot tolerate benzoyl peroxide, then you may want to consider topical prescription options such as clindamycin, erythromycin, tetracycline, or Differin (adapalene) Gel. Tea tree oil is also an option, but has limited research supporting its effectiveness, and it is difficult to find the recommended concentration.
• For sunscreen, the easiest route is to use a matte finish foundation and pressed power with broad-spectrum sun protection, rated at least SPF 15. You would only apply moisturizer or serum to dry areas prior to applying foundation. If you do not use foundation, choose a regular sunscreen with a matte finish.
• Supply oily areas with the antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients it needs in either serum or toner form. In this manner, your skin will benefit without making oily areas worse or causing clogged pores. Make sure the serum is alcohol-free and either silicone- or water-based.
• If oily areas become too shiny during the day, use oil-blotting papers to absorb the excess shine then touch up with a lightweight, sheer pressed powder, applied with a brush.
• For extremely oily areas, apply a thin layer of plain Milk of Magnesia prior to foundation with sunscreen. The magnesium hydroxide is more absorbent than clays or talc, and also has antibacterial properties for skin. A similar option that is more cosmetically elegant is smashbox’s Anti-Shine in Smashing Neutral (colorless).
• If sun- or hormone-induced discolorations are present, choose a gel-based skin lightening product containing 2% hydroquinone and apply at least once per day to affected areas.

Treating Normal-to-Dry & Very Dry Areas of Combination Skin

• As described above for treating oily areas, a BHA product is an option, even if blemishes and/or blackheads are not present. The difference is that for drier areas, you may prefer a BHA in a lotion or cream base. Begin with a 1% concentration and step up if needed (this may be necessary during summer months). If blemishes are present over dry areas, a BHA product is a must. Begin with 1% salicylic acid and step up to 2% concentration if needed.
• If blemishes and blackheads are not a concern, a well-formulated AHA product may be used all over the face or just over drier areas. For all-over use, choose an AHA gel containing at least 8% glycolic acid. For use over dry areas, you may prefer an AHA product in a lotion or cream base. Both AHA and BHA products are excellent for improving the appearance and feel of sun-damaged skin and encouraging skin cell turnover.
• A soothing, moisture-infusing toner may be used after cleansing to reinforce skin's lipid barrier and boost hydration prior to applying a serum or moisturizer. Apply the next product when skin is still damp from the toner.
• Since applying two separate sunscreens can be tricky, your best bet is to get daily facial sun protection from a foundation with sunscreen rated SPF 15 or higher. It should have a matte finish for your oily areas. Because a matte finish can exaggerate dry areas, it is essential to apply a rich serum or moisturizer prior to foundation. For obvious reasons, keep such items away from oily areas.
• Choose a moisturizer loaded with antioxidants, water-binding agents, emollients, and ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. Make sure it is packaged in an opaque container (no jars) to keep the antioxidants stable.
• A serum-type product may be all your dry areas need to look and feel better. More severe dryness will benefit from an antioxidant-rich serum paired with an emollient moisturizer.
• Use a moisturizing facial mask as needed. Make sure it contains several emollients (such as non-volatile plant or nut oils) and leave on dry areas as long as needed, including overnight.
• If your eye area is the driest part of your face, you may need a richer cream or serum than what is needed for other normal to dry areas of your face. Apply sparingly and allow a few moments to absorb before applying makeup. At night, you may want to apply your regular moisturizer to the eye area and follow with a thin layer of olive, evening primrose, or borage oil (all are extremely emollient as well as potent antioxidants).
• If blemishes are present over dry areas, apply a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product in a lotion base. If blemishes do not respond, switch to a product containing 5% benzoyl peroxide. If you are allergic to (or your skin cannot tolerate) benzoyl peroxide, consider topical prescription options such as clindamycin, erythromycin, tetracycline, or Differin (adapalene) Cream.
• If sun- or hormone-induced discolorations are present, choose a lotion- or cream-based skin lightening product containing 2% hydroquinone and apply at least once per day to affected areas.

For research and studies supporting these recommendations please refer to the Ingredient Dictionary and look up the specific ingredient (such as alpha hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, antioxidant, cell-communicating ingredients, etc.).

This article is taken from the website of Paula Begoun.

While many women of color feel their skin-care needs differ from those of Caucasian women, nothing could be further from the truth. I suspect the belief that a difference does exist comes from persuasive marketing which seeks to segment women of color into their own specialized group. Regardless of color or ethnic background, all skin is subject to a range of virtually identical problems with similar considerations. Whether it is dry or oily skin, blemishes, scarring, wrinkles, skin discolorations, rashes, rosacea, sensitivity, or sun damage, the diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment is the same for all men and women.

Please don’t misunderstand: there are certainly some distinctions between varying ethnic groups when it comes to skin problems and skin-care options, but overall these differences are minor in comparison to the number of similarities. Think of it this way: regardless of skin color, dietary needs remain the same. A high-calorie diet results in weight gain, an unhealthy diet can cause health risks, and if you don't eat you die, regardless of your skin color. As far as skin care goes, skin is an organ (the largest in the human body) and needs the same ingredients and formulations to be healthy or deal with various skin concerns regardless of its color.

Research on this topic supports the points above while also noting the distinctive traits between ethnic skin tones, though contrary to popular belief, these traits don't mean different products are needed for treatment. According to an article in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (February 2002, pages 41–62) "There is not a wealth of data on racial and ethnic differences in skin and hair structure, physiology, and function. What studies do exist involve small patient populations and often have methodological flaws.

Consequently, few definitive conclusions can be made. The literature does support a racial differential in epidermal melanin [pigment] content and melanosome dispersion in people of color compared with fair-skinned persons. These differences could at least in part account for the lower incidence of skin cancer in certain people of color compared with fair-skinned persons; a lower incidence and different presentation of photo aging; pigmentation disorders in people with skin of color; and a higher incidence of certain types of alopecia [loss of hair] in Africans and African Americans compared with those of other ancestry." While skin cancer may not be as much of a threat or concern, skin discolorations resulting from unprotected sun exposure or hormonal concerns are the same as that for women with lighter skin. Of course darker skin tones suffer less sun-induced changes to skin (including dryness) than women with lighter skin tones. This is due to the greater presence of melanin in darker skin tones, but does not mean that such skin tones don’t require a well-formulated moisturizer when/if their skin becomes dry for other reasons. [But] women of color are just as likely to suffer from photo(sun)-induced dermatitis conditions as women with light skin tones, proving that melanin only goes so far toward protecting women of color from sun damage.

A surprising difference noted in the research it is the imperative need to treat darker skin tones gently. When irritated, darker skin tones can stimulate hyperpigmentation causing patches of dark or grayish skin discolorations. Though this is easily treated, the main focus should be prevention. Given my fervent belief over the years that all skin types need to be treated gently, it's encouraging there is research pointing that way for women of color as well. When skin is irritated it cannot protect itself from the environment, it causes collagen and elastin to break down, it hurts the skin's immune response, and can cause skin to become dry (ashen) and flaky.

The bottom line is that regardless of skin color or ethnicity, all skin needs a gentle cleanser, effective exfoliant, state-of-the-art moisturizer (over dry areas), a sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater containing UVA-protecting ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Mexoryl SX (ecamsule) and appropriate treatments for skin discolorations (hydroquinone-based products), blemishes, and wrinkles.

The advanced recipe for the face serum. The website that the ingredients can be purchased at is www.skinactives.com I am going to try this recipe out when I get the chance. At the moment I have a whole bunch of recipes waiting for me to try so I'll see when I get there. :)



First, use the recommended quantities. Period.

To 1-2 tablespoons of plain vegetable glycerin, add
pinch Ellagic Acid- antioxidant, cancer preventive, anti-inflammatory, helps improve discoloration

pinch Ferulic Acid- cancer preventive, protects the skin against UVB-induced erythema, skin lightener, increases stability of vitamins C (MAP) and E

1/8 teaspoon of Coenzyme Q10- topical application restores mitochondrial activity, increasing energy production plus minimizing energy needed to make new collagen; antiaging, antioxidant, stimulating active, it will push your skin into “high gear”
Mix thoroughly until all actives are dissolved. If you have difficulty dissolving, microwave for 10-15 seconds and mix, mix, mix. Set aside.

Next, to the Fountain of Youth serum, add:
1/8 teaspoon Alpha Lipoic Acid** - (aka ALA) essential for youthful cell function; our bodies’ own production dimishes as we age
pinch Beta Glucan- anti-aging, cancer-preventive
pinch Carnosine- accelerates and improves healing. Prevents wrinkles and loss of elasticity brought about by aging and exposure to sunlight, .also an antioxidant and seems to improve immune response
1/8 teaspoon DMAE** - antioxidant, increases firmness and overall appearance of aging skin
pinch Green Tea ECGC- antioxidant, repair of damage done by UVA radiation, cancer preventive
1/4 teaspoon Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate- (aka MAP) the “real” ester-C, a stable and soluble form of ascorbic acid, stimulates collagen synthesis, anti-aging, anti-oxidant, anti-acne, skin brightening, decrease appearance of sun spots
1/8 teaspoon Niacin- relieves itching, controls sebum products, skin lightening effects
Last, add the glycerin-active mix to the serum. Mix thoroughly. Put the mix into a glass dropper-top bottle or other non-reactive liquid dispensing container.

Some of the actives may never dissolve completely, but they will release their active ingredients continuously. If the undissolved ‘grit’ bothers you, strain your serum using CLEAN muslin, cheese cloth, nylon or any fine-sieve strainer.

DIRECTIONS: Use this super-active serum once or twice a day, after cleansing your skin, before you apply your moisturizer and sunscreen, and after 30 days, you will see smoother, brighter, clearer, younger-looking skin.If you experience ANY irritation…
either your skin doesn’t like one (or more) of the ingredients–in which case you should stop using it altogether and toss it
OR your mix is too concentrated–dilute it with some distilled water until your skin can tolerate it
OR your skin is simply adjusting to one or more of the ingredients–use your serum only once a day when you are not using any other products and if the irritation doesn’t subside after 3-4 days, stop using it and toss it

COSTS: The active ingredients is this serum are exactly the same as those found in the most exclusive, expensive skincare products on the market today. What you’ll spend: $87.00, plus shipping. If you don’t have glycerin, you can find it at most pharmacies or grocery stores, about $6 for 4 oz.

BONUS: You’ll have LOTS of the active ingredients leftover, which you can add to most any moisturizer (NOT sunscreen, NOT already-active cream…plain Eucerin, Olay, et al are okay) to make your own super-active skincare cream–way better than the high-dollar stuff at the department stores. Whether you use your mix on your face or body–or both–is completely up to you. But keep in mind with all these actives: A LITTLE BIT GOES A LONG WAY.

**Many people experience mild stinging with Alpha Lipoic Acid and DMAE, especially when they first start using them. However, if the stinging is intense or if you experience ANY redness and irritation, OR if the stinging occurs for more than a few days, STOP USING THIS SERUM.

NOTE: If you have rosacea or sensitive skin, or if you want to avoid the irritation issue, DO NOT USE Alpha Lipoic Acid or DMAE.

AS ALWAYS: When mixing, take extra precautions to wash your hands and be sure to use sterilized mixing, measuring, straining implements and containers.

I am very interested in creating or rather making homemade facial care and skin care recipes. For some reason today I had it my mind to make a face serum or rather if I wanted to make a face serum how would I go about that. So I started to google. Yes I do love that search engine. Anyway I found a nice recipe that the blog poster had perfected, It has a basic serum recipe and then an advance part, where there are more ingredients that offer various benefits for you skin. The site is www.natural-beauty-tips.info

DIY (do-it-yourself) Skincare can be fun, easy and best of all, work wonders on your skin…plus, it costs WAY less than those ultra-expensive beauty products, most of which are a bit of a rip-off (and some of which are a complete scam).

The following Fountain-of-Youth serum is one that can be used by itself but it can also act as a base for other active skincare ingredients. Click on the links to purchase the individual ingredients. Distilled water (a must…no tap water, please) can be bought at your grocery store:
1 1/2 tablespoons of distilled water
1/2 tablespoon seakelp bioferment
1/4 teaspoon hyaluronic acid
1/8 teaspoon Germaben II preservative

Optional ingredients include aloe vera juice (substitute 1/2 tablespoon of water) and plain vegetable glycerin (add up to 1 teaspoon).

Seakelp bioferment is a kelp extract containing vital nutrients that feeds your skin. It’s the “magic” Miracle Broth™ ingredient in Creme de la Mer.

Hyaluronic acid (also called hyaluronate or hyaluronan), produced naturally by the human body, is a component of connective tissue whose function is to cushion and lubricate. It’s been nicknamed the “key to the fountain of youth” because it has been noted that some people who ingest a lot of it in their diets tend to live to ripe old ages and also because it provides volume and fullness to the skin.

To mix: stir together the water and hyaluronic acid first and let it set for a few hours to overnight. This mixture will thicken (you can add more or less hyaluronic acid depending on the consistency you prefer), then add the remaining ingredients, adding the preservative last. If you use another preservative, be sure to use one that is water-based or will work in a hydrophilic solution — and that you use the proper amount.

Directions: Apply to your face and neck after cleansing your skin, 1-2 times per day. Moisturize and apply sunscreen over the top of the serum.

Costs: $32 (plus shipping for the actives and Germaben II) depending on what distilled water costs at your grocery store.

Bonus: LOTS of leftover Seakelp Bioferment, distilled water and Hyaluronic Acid that can all be used in other youth-inducing skincare mixes you make yourself.

Please note: When mixing ANY products you put on your face or body, take extra care to wash your hands and use sterilized implements and containers (mixing sticks, bottles, droppers, etc.).

Next time, I’ll recommend different active ingredients to add to the base serum. Each active or group of actives will address different issues, i.e., free-radical protection, collagen building, firmness, and so on.

Next post the advanced recipe